How to Choose a Roofing Contractor: 12 Questions to Ask Before You Sign

A full roof replacement on a typical US home runs $10,000 to $20,000 in 2026, and unlike a car, you can't test-drive it first. The contractor you pick matters more than the shingle brand — a top-tier shingle installed badly fails faster than a mid-range one installed well.

The good news: a dozen direct questions, asked before you sign anything, will filter out most of the contractors you'd regret hiring. Here they are, grouped the way a first meeting usually flows.

Start with license and insurance (questions 1–3)

Question 1: "What's your license number, and where can I verify it?" Licensing rules vary — some states license roofers statewide, others leave it to counties or cities. A legitimate contractor knows exactly who regulates them and will hand over the number without hesitation; look it up yourself rather than taking a photocopy at face value.

Question 2: "Can your insurer send me a current certificate of insurance?" You want two coverages, and you want the certificate emailed directly from the insurance agent, not printed by the contractor:

Question 3: "Who actually installs my roof — your employees or subcontractors?" Subs are common and not a red flag by themselves, but they must carry or be covered by workers' comp too. Ask whose policy covers them, and get it in writing.

• General liability, commonly $1 million or more, which covers damage to your property
• Workers' compensation, which covers crew injuries — without it, an injured worker can sue you

Check certifications and track record (questions 4–6)

Question 4: "Do you hold any manufacturer certifications?" Programs like GAF Master Elite, Owens Corning Platinum Preferred, and CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster require training, insurance verification, and a clean record — and only certified installers can sell the strongest extended warranties. GAF, for one, grants Master Elite status to only a small fraction of contractors.

Question 5: "How long have you operated under this exact business name?" A company that renames itself every few years may be shedding bad reviews or legal history.

Question 6: "Who is my day-to-day contact, and who supervises the crew on site?" You want one name and a direct number, not a call center.

Get a written, itemized quote (questions 7–9)

Question 7: "Can I get every line item in writing?" A one-number quote tells you nothing about what you're buying. A real quote itemizes:

Question 8: "What's your price if you find rotten decking?" Nobody knows what's under the old shingles until tear-off. Get the unit price in writing up front — replacing a 4x8 sheet of plywood typically runs $75 to $125 installed in 2026.

Question 9: "Who pulls the permit?" The contractor should, under their own license, and the fee — usually $150 to $500 — should appear on the quote. A contractor who suggests skipping the permit is telling you how they handle everything else.

• Tear-off and disposal, including the dumpster
• Underlayment and ice-and-water shield
• Drip edge, flashing, and pipe boots
• Ridge vents or other ventilation work
• Exact shingle brand, product line, and color

Pin down warranty and payment terms (questions 10–12)

Question 10: "What's your workmanship warranty, separate from the manufacturer's?" The manufacturer covers the shingles; the contractor covers the installation, which is where most failures actually start. Five to ten years in writing is a solid answer; "we stand behind our work" is not.

Question 11: "Will you register my manufacturer warranty, and what voids it?" Certified installers can offer enhanced warranties covering materials and labor for 25 years or more, but poor attic ventilation or unregistered paperwork can void coverage. Ask for written confirmation of registration after the job.

Question 12: "What's the payment schedule?" A deposit of 10 to 30 percent is normal; full payment upfront never is. Final payment should come after the final inspection and your walkthrough, not before.

Know the post-storm red flags

After hail or high wind, out-of-town crews canvass damaged neighborhoods. Some are legitimate, but the risk profile is different, and a few patterns are worth declining politely:

None of this means storm damage isn't real or urgent. It means the same 12 questions apply — and a contractor who has worked in your area for a decade can answer every one of them.

• Unsolicited door-knocking with a "free inspection" and photos of damage you can't see yourself
• Offers to "waive" or absorb your insurance deductible — that's insurance fraud in most states
• Pressure to sign an assignment of benefits (AOB) on the spot, handing them control of your claim
• No local physical address — hard to find when a warranty issue surfaces in year three

Vet references like you mean it

Ask for three recent references and one from two or three years ago — every new roof looks good, but the older job tells you how the work aged and whether anyone answered the phone afterward. When you call, ask specifics: Did the crew show up when promised? Did the final invoice match the quote? Did the magnet sweep actually catch the nails?

Vetting is the part you can do yourself with a phone and an afternoon. The tear-off, decking repairs, and flashing details around chimneys and valleys are the parts a licensed professional like Acme Roofing should own — that's what the license, insurance, and warranty exist for. Ask the twelve questions, get the answers in writing, and the signing part takes care of itself.